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As is well known, the anode on the 3 blade folding prop corodes very quickly – sometimes gone in less than a season. I am adding this post in the hope that someone, somewhere, has come up with a better way. Perhaps a larger anode, different type of anode – anything. I also remember reading an article in the Bav Magazine (which I have lost of course) and would like to make contact with the author to clarify some issues and help with my almost zero understanding of the issue. Is there a better way?? If not, I wonder if it would be possibel to take the issue up with Volvo via the BOA?
I have a Volvo 2 blade folder and believe the prop anodes are similar. Three segments held on with hex head bolts. I believe the main problem is that the anodes corrode at the thinnest point where the bolt is and then break off whist there is still a goood chunk of anode left.
When I change mine annually I apply a coat of antifoul to the outside face of the bolt head. My understanding is that this isolates the bolt from the anode and the sail drive and you get less degredation of the anode at that point. Therefore they last longer. Last two years mine have just about survived the full season. Also if you don’t have a main pear drop anode you will get more corrosion on the prop anode.John
I agree with Sundance. The problem is that the anodes are eaten away under the bolt head as this is the best point of electrical contact with the prop and also the thinnest. The anodes, although not fully eroded, then fly off when the prop turns. The solution (albeit only partial) is to paint around the fixing hole with any thick paint that will not degrade in water. I have used red lead for the past several years and paint a complete circle around each anode at the fixing hole. Like Sundance, the anodes have (just) survived a full 12 months.
Roger
I have found primacon metalic primer painted around where the hex nuts go through the anode to be very effective.
I also found that not use a copper based antifouling on the prop or saildrive seemed to reduce anode wear.
Thanks for the helful suggestions. I will give this a try next time Kara is lifted out.
I also have the same problem and agree with most of the other comments on this subject. I telephoned a Prop specialist and asked for some advice. I paint mine with a hard type antifoul. He said that he did not think painting it would help either way. I asked if there was any maintenance we can do and he said no. I also asked what to watch out for and he said that eventually small bits of the prop would drop off and that would be the time to buy another one before it broke up in use!
So it seems that the best we can do is try and keep up with the annode replacement.
Regards, John
LoblollyJohn
I’m not sure who your prop ‘expert’ is but I can confirm, from several years experience now, that painting around the bolt holes definitely prolongs the life of the anodes by stopping them flying off as corrosion proceeds around the fixing.
I have recently had Playtime lifted for the annual TLC ritual and all 3 anodes were still attached, albeit almost completely eaten away after exactly 12 months i.e. they have been doing what they are supposed to do. This has been the case for the last 4 years, since I started painting around the bolt holes; previously they would be gone in 6 months!
Roger
Hi Roger,
Perhaps I did not make my reference to painting clear. I paint the prop with hard antifoul thinking it would somehow help protect the prop. I totally agree with painting the bolt holes on the anodes. It definitely helps them last longer.
Regards, John
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