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March 23, 2014 at 5:12 pm #6836Anonymous
I’m thinking of replacing the single line reefing lines on my 2002 Bav 32 with 8mm Dyneema. Does anyone know the lengths of the first and second reefing lines to save me from removing the existing ones to measure them?
March 24, 2014 at 10:25 am #9533AnonymousHi Fairy nuff….
Interesting to read that you’re planning to replace your reefing lines with Dyneema, apart from any thing else it will be very expensive!! I also have a 2002 vintage B32 and I replaced all my running rigging last winter. I’ve never had any problems with the normal Marlowbraid type lines which I’ve found to be more than strong enough and stretch hasn’t been an issue (I assume that’s why you’re contemplating using Dyneema). Have you considered the complexity of replacing the lines: bear in mind that the string that comes out of the clew end of the boom isn’t joined to the piece that goes in at the mast end! For each reef there are two separate lines which run round a complicated set of blocks and sliders inside the boom; to replace them you’ll have to dismantle the boom end cap and remove the blocks and sliders from inside to install the new lines. It’s do-able but you’ll need patience and lots of mousing line!!
It’s worth looking at the Selden website for more information on how their reefing systems are rigged.
Regards
Ian Culley
Another FantasyMarch 24, 2014 at 11:17 am #9588AnonymousThanks for the reply, Ian.
My main reason for thinking of replacing the reefing lines is the friction when I am trying to shake out the reefs. Reefing itself is no problem – simplicity itself – but trying to unreef involves standing at the boom end and pulling through both the reefing lines manually. I am only too aware of the in-boom set up, as I rather stupidly inadvertently pulled through one of the reefing lines which had come loose from the boom a couple of years ago. It took me the best part of a day in a remote part of Scotland to get the whole sorry mess sorted, but a useful side effect was that I downloaded a schematic diagram of the arrangement of the sliders etc. My local Selden agent have advised me that dropping down to 8mm Dyneema will help the friction, “and can be self done by just pulling the line through with the new line attached.” (their words) I was planning on sewing the old and new lines end to end. The tack lines are relatively short, and only pass over one sheave, so I was planning to leave them as is.
I would welcome any other comments on this proposal, and in particular if anyone knows the lengths of rope involved, so that I can price the project. I agree that it will be expensive, but if it eases reefing and unreefing it may be worth it.Iain Robertson
Fairy NuffMarch 24, 2014 at 12:27 pm #9589AnonymousIain
The reason that I replaced all my reefing lines (among others) was to try to eradicate the friction problem that you’ve described. When I discussed the problem with my local rigger he understood perfectly and suggested that I rig the reefing lines as single lengths bypassing the Selden in-boom linkage altogether; putting it another way, each reef enters the boom at the mast having first passed through a block installed at the cringle on the luff of the mainsail and exits at the clew end, then up through another block at the leech of the main, one for each reefing cringle, finally making off to the boom in the normal way. The disadvantage of this is that you end up with slightly more spare line in the cockpit when you put reefs in, but the big advantage is much reduced friction when shaking out a reef and I think you could avoid using Dyneema as well! Hope this helps.
Regards
Ian
March 25, 2014 at 10:00 am #9590AnonymousThat’s interesting Ian, and having drawn it I can see how it would work. One wonders why Selden decided to complicate matters so much. I will go back to the drawing board and have a think. Once again, thanks for the reply.
Iain
June 23, 2014 at 9:17 pm #9664AnonymousJust as a follow up to this, I took advice from our local Selden agent. The first step was to ensure that all the nylon wheels on the in boom sliders were present. Two were missing and duly replaced. The inside of the boom then got a good flushing with a pressure washer. I bit the bullet and replaced the existing reefing lines with 10mm Dyneema – one size smaller diameter than the existing lines. Replacement was actually very simple, I just stitched the end of the new line end to end with the old one and pulled the lot through. The luff lines needed an eye splice, and some mousing line, but no great hassle really.
The long and the short of it is that shaking out a reef is much simpler and safer – no more standing at the end of the boom pulling through the lines. The sail goes back up with only a little resistance which is easily overcome by putting the halyard on the winch. I am now much more ready to reef, in the knowledge that unreefing will be simpler than before.
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