[Anonymous]

Thanks for the excellent description

[Anonymous]

Hi.
I have changed the gaitor or outdrive / sail drive gaskets on several boats over the years. It is a job that requires a reasonable level of mechanical and electrical competency.
If you can wire a plug, change spark plugs on your car, and follow simple process/logic chart, I can see no reason why you cannot carry out the work yourself, given a few tips and a helping hand. Its not rocket science!
Quick summary;
You will need the boat out of the water, an ability to record the disassembly by photo and marking of components/wires with their connection points. Possibly a marine engineer to provide an invoice to provide an invoice to prove that the installation is sound, checked, and if required replace or re-shim the lower bearings thrust drag. (this can be done by using simple physics and measuring length vs rotational force, but unless you have a real understanding of back lash, and how to work out rotational force just get the local engineer to check your work for the invoice the insurance company may require)
In short ;
take the boat out, disconnect the engine from the sail drive, mark all the electrical connections, remove the engine trough the companionway sliding it on a board and an old off cut of carpet. Keep the sail-drive supported using a large trolley jack and wooden blocks. Remove the prop, and lower shaft, remove the gator compression bolts and the torque compensator fitting. Drag the sail drive in to the boat by lifting and pulling towards the bow.
Remove the gator and re fix a new one (keep the invoice for the kit as proof its been changed)
Having checked the end float and bearing wear (and corrected any out of tolerance), replaced the two outer O rings on the bearing housing, anodes re assemble in reverse.
This really is not rocket science and you should be able to undertake all the work with a Halfords socket set and some basic skills.

Word of warning, obviously you will need to disconnect the electrical systems, empty all the fluids. There are engine sail-drive isolation issues, but following a step by step process and reversing this will not cause any issues.
If you don’t work clean and prevent contamination of the new gator, the engine oils and the sail drive oil by dust, dirt, grit and water, the integrity of the system will be compromised .
I have some step by step photos and a PDF of how to do this somewhere on my PC. I will upload when I find them …

Try this link, its not the one i was looking for which was done on a moody 31 but the pricipal is the same. http://www.friendshipclub.nl/site/techniek/Artikel%20Practical%20Boat%20Owner.pdf

If you need any help or advise PM me.
Best regards
Anthony

[Anonymous]

Hi Derek,
Your photograph of the flange you cut off the skin fitting appears to show that the metal at the cut is in perfect condition. Could you let me know if that was the case and what was the condition of the remainder. I ask this question as I have replaced the seacocks on my B34 but when I did this the only parts showing signs of dezincification were the hose tails above the sea cocks which I believe were brass. I convinced myself at the time that the through hull fittings were sound and was happy to leave them in place and carry out annual inspection. So far so good and they are now 13 years old, but an insight into the condition of your fittings could influence any future decision.

Thanks in anticipation.

[Anonymous]

Derek,

The photograph showing the flange that you cut off appears to show the metal to be in good condition. Can you confirm if this was so and what was the condition of the other fittings that you cut off.

Thanks.

[Author]

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