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During the winter when the temperature drops below freezing the black sealant around the outside edge of the teak on the cockpit seating pulls away from the teak and grp, and when it warms up it shrinks back to a tight fit.
One of the jobs on the “to do” list is to cut it out and replace. I’m guessing it is a Sikaflex sealant/adhesive but does anyone know which one or done the same job and can recommend a suitable sealant?
Thanks in advance.
Rick
SundanceHi Rick
Try googling – it comes up with loads of hits.
The Sikaflex product is 290DC but there are several others. I can’t recommend any particular product as I’ve no direct experience – yet.
I need to do a few ‘seams’ on Playtime’s deck so would be interested in your experiences when you’ve done the job.
Roger
Ditto from me!! One or two little gaps appearing on Another Fantasy’s deck…..
Ian Culley
Roger
Thanks for that.
I’ve had a look at the Sikaflex 290DC and it looks to be the right stuff and at £18 per tube it ought to do the job.
I probably only need a tenth of the tube so if successful I’ll let you and Ian know and share the remainder of the tube with you.
Regards
RickI replaced the caulking on some small areas of teak on a previous boat. It was a Sika product which I used but don’t recall the reference. What I can remember is that it is quite fluid and it is best to mask both edges before running the Sika into the groove taking care not to overfill. The nasking tape can then be removed before it sets. Take care at this point as it can prove quite messy with long strips of masking take with caulking on which can get everywhere as it flies about in the wind!! Good luck.
Mike
Kamara
Mike
I’m still trying to work out how to mask up around the teak and the cockpit coaming as the caulking I need to replace is on the tight radius of the cockpit seating at the aft end of the cockpit.
If anybody has any tips on how to stretch masking tape round a segment of a curve they would also be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
RickHi Rick,
I did a similar job on Saloma when i fixed some none slip pads with rounded corners to my deck. I finished them off with a Sikaflex fillet to the edges. At the corners i used wide masking tape which i marked and cut, after sticking it to deck and none slip pad, using a sharp model makers blade. (like a stanley knife but smaller and very sharp.) I left sufficient width for the fillet from the edge of the pad. Worked a treat.
Hi Rick,
I have used Boatlife Teak Deck Sealant with good results. You need a heavy weight to put on top of the section to be stuck down – something about the weight of a car battery.
I have also used it on the seams on the teak deck. I scraped out the old seam sections which were “staying wet” after the rest had dried, masked the edges with tape, filled the seams, smoothed them off, and removed the tape. The parts I resealed two years ago seem to be still fine.
Just don’t get it on the fibreglass or teak. It’s a bugger to get off!
Alastair
@playtime wrote:
The Sikaflex product is 290DC…
Sika told me that it was Sikaflex 291 on my B47.
@dolcetto wrote:
@playtime wrote:
The Sikaflex product is 290DC…
Sika told me that it was Sikaflex 291 on my B47.
It depends what question you asked!
The relevant extracts from the Sika handbook (http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads/sikaflexmarinehandbook.pdf) read as follows
Deck caulking
For timber decks that are completely watertight and weather
resistant, Sika has developed Sikaflex®-290 DC. Extremely easy
to use, this one-part polyurethane deck caulking compound
can be sanded flush with the deck when cured to give a
beautifully neat, clean finish.Sealing
Resistant to weathering, seawater and ultra-violet radiation,
Sikaflex®-291 is the perfect all-rounder: an all-purpose flexible
marine sealant that bonds extremely well to all the standard
materials used in boat construction. Its outstanding elasticity
ensures a durable, long-lasting seal.Your choice!
we used 291 0n our bav42, with good results,but do it now when warm and dry if you want it to stick, not a job for damp cold winters!
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