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Hi Barolo – the simplest way to have the option to start the engine from the house batteries is to keep a set of good quality ‘jump leads’ ready in the battery compartment.
Our engine (cranking battery) recently failed and I quickly started the engine using the jump leads.
Another (but more expensive option) would be to purchase a 12V portable battery pack).
I hope that helps.
Hi again Alex – here’s the english version of the switch board and a wiring diagram. Hope this helps.
Hi Alex – this is my third attempt at a reply. I really don’t want to be critical but the forum app isn’t too great.
I have a 42C (2005) and the Owner’s Manual shows those switches as:
18 – spare
15: – “Heizung” – heating.
I’m not going to attach the photos I took but if this finally goes through I’ll send them as a follow-on.
Hope that helps.
I hope that helps – so the summary is – that I don’t think this housing is protected by the lower aft hull anode.
That the corrosion arises from copper paint on aluminium.
That just changing out the nylon bearing is not the answer as it’s the housing distortion that is causing the constriction (in my case).
That a complete nylon replacement is the answer.
Hi Steve – I’ll try again…….
We have a Bavaria 42 Cruiser (2005) and the aluminium lower (through hull) rudder bearing housing was very corroded. The rudders were becoming very stiff and resistant to turning.
This first photo graph shows the original housing from inside the lazarette with no cable attached to the anode under the hull,
More to follow this but I’ll send it in multiple parts so I don’t lose a lot of time again.
