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      I intend to re-route the control lines of my bavaria 32 mainsheet traveler so that they can be controlled from the cockpit. I have tested this by extending the control lines, leading them forward, and turning them aft through the deck organisers and through existing jammers (temporarily). This works well. To complete the job will involve the provision of 2 additional jammers. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has fitted additional jammers. Is there an alternative to cutting a section out of the inner skin to allow access?


        If the 32 coach roof is built the same as the 36 and you are intending to fit additional jammers directly next to the existing ones you will find that there is a 9mm thick aluminium plate built into the coachroof that enables you to drill and tap for new jammers fixing them in place with machine screws and avoids the need to remove head linings and fit backing plates.
        To check the ali plate is there you can pilot drill a small hole where the new jammer is to be located and should find the plate approx 8 to 10mm below the top gelcoat.


          Many thanks. The current configuration means that the additional jammers will need to be fitted beside but outboard of the existing ones. I will check this out next weekend and let you know how I get on.


            As long as the new jammers fit on the smooth flat area before it drops off to the coachroof you should have no problems. Two years ago I fitted a double and a single clutch on the outside of the existing ones without a problem.
            When you drill and tap them make sure you overdrill the gellcoat/fibreglass by 1 to 2 mm over the machine screw size otherwise it will craze badly as you tap the machine screw.
            Don’t ask how I know.


              I checked for the existence of a backing plate yesterday and, unfortunately, the extant one doesn’t extend beyond supporting the existing clutches.

              I executed plan B. I drilled right through the inner skin from above (6mm bit) and then use a holesaw to drill up through the inner skin from inside the boat. I restricted the cutting of the inner skin to 4 by 25mm holes. I then used < 25mm s/s penny washers as backing for the 6mm s/s machine screws c/w nylok s/s nuts. These are recessed above the inner skin. All this is hidden now by the head-lining panel. This seems very solid and should be able for the lateral pressure that will be applied by the Spinnaker pole uphaul which I redirected to the new clutch.

              Many thanks for your feedback. Yours would have been an ideal solution. Let’s hope mine remains problem-free.


                What year is your Bav 32 please – mine is 2003. I would like to upgrade my three clutches each side to four each side. Earlier comments are great insight, as was not sure how I could gain access to any plate below deck on startboard side, due to heads sealed unit. Looks like I don’t have to worry, as can drill into plate that I can see in in gel coat. Before I start though, I noticed your comment about metal plate not extending far enough over, hence question – mine looks wide enough, but that could just be gel coat. Only other concern will be possible need for new holes to accommodate bigger clutch set due to mot aligning to current (keen in spinlock from previous boat), but will need to figure that out when I remove the old Leamar clutches.



                  I have done this on our 34 in Port Solent and it works well.
                  The plate under the fibre glass takes the load.Just drill gently to the required depth.
                  I reduced the line size as most of my lines are too tight in the jammers


                    I’ve gone 4 each side on CaSam too…went straight into the metal plate as previously described and thats on the Farr 32 as well.


                      Thanks everyone. Now on my wish / to do list for my 2003 bav 32.


                        JFR. Hi In my 32 there was a moulding to in the ceiling behind the forward bulkhead. You could access this from a small removable panel where the mast cables came in. I used a long plastic dowel to feed a draw wire into the moulding and out in the back of the cupboards behind the cover plates in the back of the cupboards. Then I feed the cables back to the control panel behind the cupboards. I also pulled a draw wire in as a spare for future use. Basically it’s the same route as the VHF cable takes. You can also take any wires across the boat at the same point. As we added more electronics to the 32 we filled that route and then ended up putting a flexy conduit across the ceiling by fishing it through the lamp holes. It was tight but gave us another route.

                        Hope this helps.


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