[Anonymous]

Hi,

I have a Bav 33 Cruiser and need to order some mooring lines. What mm thickness would you advise to moor up in a marina finger pontoon.

[Anonymous]

12mm work well for me!

[Anonymous]

Thanks,

Another question if you don’t mind. Do you know what anodes need replacing on a 33 cruiser and what they’re called?

[Anonymous]

Epic. Just seen this post. If you look at your anode post Ive put a reply.

Ant

[Anonymous]

@Impavidus wrote:

Epic. Just seen this post. If you look at your anode post Ive put a reply.

Ant

Hi Ant…can’t see your reply on Epic’s anode post?

Epic, it will depend on a number of factors.
For example;
Where do you keep the boat. (Fresh water, Brackish or Salt)?
What size saildrive unit you have?
What prop you have fitted?
Whether you have a rope cutter or not?

Based on a standard boat (20-30) in salt water with a fixed 2 blade Volvo prop and no rope cutter, you will only need the two part Volvo Penta Zinc Ring Anode and also a round zinc anode that fixes to the hull just aft the saldrive leg. (The standard round anode was very small…I have fitted a larger bolt on unit and it appears to last better between lifts (although with my copper coat I do not lift her out very often!)

If you have a folding prop then normally these also have additional anodes for their protection.

You can see some pics of the ring anode and the folding prop anodes on this thread;
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1061

Hope this helps?

[Anonymous]

Yep, fat finger keyboard error!

AS you said Saildrive is split, so easy to do. Change the penny washer anode for something bigger, If you have folding prop you will need to change these too. Your bowthruster has an anode held on by one Allen bolt.

Good practice to cover the bolt heads with a bit of sika on the leg anode as it stops the rotting out prematurely. Same with bowthruster anode.

Ant.

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