[Anonymous]

I posted this info on another forum. However I thought it may be of use to BOA users…………
I would check the following when looking at a new boat:::
On deck;
1. Play in wheel / rudder (look for play or tight spots)
2. Auto pilot function (if fitted)
3. Nav gear
4. Wind, log, fuel gauge, rev counter, compass (also do they illuminate?) No misting after 1 hour of engine running
5. Cold starting
6. Winches turn under load.
7. Neutral button on throttle
8. Hinges locks and latches all moving parts
9. Clutches open and close
10. Base of rigging (wire to crimps)
11. Bottle screws
12. Check stanchion’s are fixed and don’t wobble at deck fixing (give them a wiggle)
13. Cracks around screw fixings and hold down points (including canopy fixings)
14. Canopy, Spray hood, dodgers.
15. Windlass, chain, anchor.
16. Sails, look for wear around eyelets, stitching, mould, stretching, tears, repairs, batons.
17. Pulleys, sheets, blocks, cleats. (look for stress and strain or even small cracks around the base or fixing points)
18. All lines and rigging.
19. Hatches, windows, locks, doors. Open and close all. (Look for water staining and crazing from the inside)
20. Check the boom and mast are not twisted or bent by look along their lengths/heights.
21. Check all navigation lights. Leave them on for an hour with the mains disconnected.
22. Check toe rail is not dented, marked or bent.
23. Check rear rubbing strip for damage.
24. Check transom shower.
25. All safety equipment ie horseshoe bouy, light, throwing line, dan-bouy, etc.
Hull; (assumed still in the water?)
26. Check for Knicks, cracks, repairs, wear marks, lumps and bumps, ripples in GRP. Look for stickers or decals that may be hiding damage.
27. Check Vin number (moulded in rear quarters) is the same as the paperwork
28. Check bow for damage, especially on the side the anchor is deployed/retrieved
29. Check stern as above, deploy ladder
Engine drive gear;
30. Check oil level cold
31. Check coolant level cold
32. Check coolant filler cap for waxy deposits
33. Check oil filler for waxy deposits
34. Check under sump for oil leaks (wipe around with a tissue)
35. Look for diesel leaks at pipe banjo’s , filters and injectors.
36. Check drive leg oil ( this should be the same grade as your engine if its red the wrong oil is in there. Or there are waxy deposits or white scum around the dip stick there is a problem
37. Check filters, filter bowl for water.
38. Check cable terminals and wires for corrosion and chafing
39. Check around the water-lock/exhaust muffler for drips leaks and staining
40. Check date of last change of bellows gasket (to drive leg) check for leaks, damage wet spots seeping or corrosion on the clamping ring
41. Check raw water filter an lines should be double clipped with no rust on the clips
42. Check raw water sea cock for leaks and operation. Open and close firmly several times
43. Check pipes to clorifier for leaks. Pay attention to the hot water outlet to taps (red pipe) where it joins the clorifier, and first 400mm of pipe. Check again when water is hot.
44. Start engine and run at ½ throttle in gear. (about 1500-1700 rpm). Stop engine, re check all of the above.
45. Special note: all marine engines clog their out outlet manifolds at the point of water injection. After 3-4 years you need to regularly check the bore is not clogged. You need to remove the injection manifold to check this. Symptoms are loss of power, black smoke, exhaust note. After 8 years assume replacement necessary
46. Anti-syphon valve in raw water intake check function, remove clean with hot water if blocked. To test blow and suck on bread hose in to bilge, valve shoud close/ open
47. Check raw water pump for leaks at front cover and drips from opening in casting between pump impellor housing and casting to engine
48. Check service history
Below decks (electrical);
49. Check all lighting and power panel for operation
50. Check for bare cables, chafing, corroded terminals, lose or badly routed cables
51. Check shower pump
52. Check heating (run for 1 hour)
53. Check fresh water pump by turning on all taps
54. Check battery volts on engine and domestic after running lighting for 1 hour (see item 4)
55. Run fridge, 1 hour should see it down to 4-6 deg c
56. Check battery charger operation
57. Check inverter (where fitted)
58. Check radio, nav gear, TV, Radio (ship to shore), AIS and all other electrical equipment fitted. Including cigarette lighter socket, 240 outlets, 12volt outlets, microwave, etc
59. Check ships clock, barometer.
60. Check battery electrolyte level on all batteries
61. Check battery terminals, they should be tight, covered and clean
Below decks (other)
62. Water tanks (must be filled to the brim). Check under bunks and seats for leaks cracks and damage
63. Check seating, covers, foam, Velcro, zips, firmness, stains and damage
64. Check woodwork ,floor, tables, cupboards, fiddles for damage
65. Lift floor, check for water, staining, etc. Check keel bolts for same.
66. Check operation of cooker. (see note under gas)
67. Check heater outlets
68. Lift all beds and seat boxes, look for stains, water, lose cables, oil , funny smells
69. Check all sea cocks vigorously, open and close several times, tap with copper hammer if owner agrees
Gas;
70. You will need to get a “gas safe” certificate on the installation as it is now out of date based on the age of the boat. However in the meantime, check flexible hoses for perishing, corrosion at unions. Operate the regulator on and off several times, use your nose. Check behind the stove, for the same.
I am assuming the boat is in the water? There are a number of things you should check if its not. Contact me and I will give you a heads up. While this is a long list it is not exhaustive, and I am sure there are a couple of things I have missed. But a couple of hours checking these items and rating them on a 1-10 scale will give you a general feeling for how the boat has been looked after. Get an inventory of what is included in the sale.

Hope this helps.

Ant.

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