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  • #6817
    Anonymous

      I am begining to suspect I have some form of waterleak in the foredeck underneath the teak decking. There may have be some form of damage during construction which has been concealed or can the deck become porous. Has anyone had the teak partially removed for a repair and if so does the teak go back fairly seamlessly. I have sealed all other known leaks such as stanchion bases, pulpit bases and cleats but now we only have the deck to suspect as water is dripping off the edge of the cabin roof lining. The boat is a 2001 B40.

      Regards, John.
      Loblolly

      #9483

      John

      Do you have teak cappings on the toerails?

      I’ve had a couple of “mystery leaks” and found both were in the hull/deck joint under the teak toerail, where there were voids in the sealant.

      Unfortunately it means lifting the toerail (a right pain) and filling the joint with Sika, but it was the only answer and solved the problem.

      Try pointing a hosepipe at the toerail and see if you get water in the boat. If you do, then that’s where it will be.

      Best of luck

      Bob

      #9489
      Anonymous

        Hi Bob

        No , I do not have the teak toe rail. The water seems to be entering via a small gap where the teak meets the coach roof. It then must be entering the cabin via a screw hole in the deck, under the teak, but it can not be located because of the plastic head lining.

        Thanks for your response.

        John

        #9495
        Anonymous

          We used to have a 2000 B31 with teak decks and suffered the same problem. We traced the problem to badly sealed D rings on the foredeck which eventually led to widespread fungal growth behind the cabin liming panels. We also has similar issues with the pushpit stanchions and water ingress behind the aft cabin linings. Hope you get it sorted soon!

          David.

          #9470
          Anonymous

            Update on the Teak deck leak.

            I finally traced the problem. The teak decking is glued to marine ply and then it is bonded onto the deck. The marine ply is screwed to the fibreglass deck to keep it flat while the adhesive is going off. The screws are then removed and the holes should be filled with resin to block them and seal the deck. The Teak is then caulked. On closer inspection I found many small strips of caulking about 2 inches long and each one was covering a sealed screw hole.

            I found a screw hole close to the edge of the coach roof that had not been sealed. Water was seeping under the teak and into the screw hole. The water then ran to the edge of the cabin roof lining and dripped off right next to the stanchion base giving the appearance of a leaking stanchion base. I lifted a couple of teak strips and re-fixed them with resin.

            In conclusion, its seems strange to screw so many holes through the deck to fix the teak decking.

            John
            Loblolly

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