- This topic is empty.
-
Posts
-
I am being lifted out of the water for a short time and am getting ready to change the anodes.
I have an Ambassador rope stripper which means the saildrive anode has to be altered or I have to buy one specially made from Ambassador. I thought the easiest was to get one from Ambassador until I saw the price!
So now I’m thinking of getting a cheapie and adapting it. This is my first lift out with this boat and my first ever boat with a saildrive so my concern is how easy is it to adapt the anode and change it in the short time it will be out of the water. I believe it’s the Volvo 130 saildrive.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers
DerekHi, Volvo can supply one to accomodate the Ambassador but I can not remember the price.
Regards, John
LoblollyI think I paid in the region of £27 plus VAT back in January from Motortech for the Volvo ropecutter anode.
Expensive for what it is but saves the aggro when pushed for time. Also that was for a 120 Sd which is a single anode so the prop has to come off to change the anode.
If memory serves me correctly the 130 is a 2 piece anode so you don’t have to remove the prop, however I expect that makes the anode nearly double the price!I get mine from Motortech and fit it myself. It is £54+vat and comes in 2 parts so is very easy to fit. I think it would cost the same from most suppliers. I agree it is very expensive, but I would not like to have to try and make it.
Best regards,
MichaelCrikey.
The 130 anode was exactly double the price for something that’s been cut in half! Good old VP.I am facing the same job on my 36, has anyone got any advice on removing the 6mm allen key machine screw which holds the propeller cone in place please ? Is there anything else holding it all on that I am missing ?
Had an initial go but it seems there might be a seized stainless into alloy problem happening.
We had fun removing our cone from the 120SE sail drive – Having no success with allan keys and bars, I ended up cutting around the cone – about 7mm in and then using a stud extractor to remove the bolt. I’ve replaced the bolt with a standard bolt cut to length & washer with some threadlock on it – Prop is still on ! Also means next time we come to remove it it is just a case of getting a spanner on the bolt rather than a stupid allan key!
the 120 anode for ambassador rope cutter is the same as a normal one with some bits taken off – I have the old one as a template and will just buy a standard anode next time (in plenty of time!) and cut out the bits myself – rather than pay double the price for less of something!
I am pleased to report that I managed to get the bolt out by using an impact screwdriver. A useful tool but I was mindfull that by hammering away too hard I could do some damage elsewhere. For once it was a job which really was sorted by hitting it with a hammer !
For those new to the process like me, I had a minor brain block when it came to removing the cone. I thought it simply levered off, luckily a fellow clubmate came to the rescue and advised that I insert a bar through the hole now clear due to the removal of the bolt, hold the prop with one hand and lever the bar to turn the cone anti clockwise.
The prop has some signs of corrosion so I am going to clean off the existing coatings and try the Blakes Prop Primer and mill drive.
Andy
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
