[Anonymous]

Hello !!! Sorry for my english. I’m from Quebec !!! (french)
I have a B37 2001, 2 cabin…
Water is comming from the stanshions and some screws at the rails…
There is some wood to be replace at the jonction of the deck and the boat…
I was thinking to take all the bad wood and fill with epoxy, sprecially at the stanshions…
Also take off the rail, but i don’t no how is the jonction look under the rail…would it be easeyer from outside..
I’m thinking to replace the srcews from the rail to bolts and washers…

Anny suggestion or tips…. Thank’s

[Anonymous]

Hi there

I’ve a B34 so I dont know the layout of the B37 but I assume roughly the same, I repalced all the stanchion bases on mine with stainless steel ones and screw bolts. you have top removes a lot inside to get access I have also to cut holes on the inner roof to get access to the deck cleats which I removed and re-bedded with sikoflex..

mike
Artemis

[Anonymous]

Hi Happy Twins,

There have been a lot of previous posts on the subject of leaks at the toerail and deck fittings. I am not sure how you can quickly find them on the forum but they are worth reading as between us we have probably experienced all of the problems you are likely to find.
I can tell you how the hull to deck joint is constructed which will be of help. The wood to which you refer does not form part of the joint. My understanding is that the GRP hull has an inward facing flange. The deck moulding is bedded onto this flange and held in place with a small number of self drilling screws. The toerail is then fitted and fixed down with self drilling screws. The thin section of timber, which is lightly glassed into place below the hull flange appears to be there to provide some resistance to the self drilling screws as if it was left out, the selfdrilling screws would have a tendency to strip the thread it was making in the deck and hull flange GRP.
It is unfortunate that any leak at a toerail fixing screw or deck fitting or stanchion base can enter the boat and run along the length of the timber before running down inside of the hull. This makes it very difficult to trace where leaks are coming from. It is worth while making sure that you trace individual leaks so that the best solution can be found. I would not expect that it would be necessary to carry out major work on the whole joint.
My leak was on the port side in the forward cabin and came from water ingress below the rear pulpit fixing at the nav light cable entry. Although this is in the anchor locker, the water was travelling back along the hull to deck joint timber and down the hull side within the forward cabin.
Hope this is of some help.

[Anonymous]

Today I have solved the water ingress to the fore cabin on my 40. The problem was exactly as Saloma described with water leaking in via the pulpit fixings. You would think the water would leak into the anchor locker but it travels along the timber into the fore cabin then down behind the vinyl panels and soaks the bunk cushions.

The holes in the deck for the pulpit base are very big so they leak a lot as soon as the pulpit becomes loose. Even light rain runs all down the pulpit to the base.

I know stanchion bases leak as well but the pulpit base was the more difficult to trace.

Regards

John
Loblolly

[Author]

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