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      Ok so I guess that I should have looked / noted BEFORE she was launched last year, but does anyone know what anodes I will need for my 2011 32 cruiser when I take her out in a few weeks time?
      I have looked on various websites although there appears to be a miriad of choices!

      Will the prop need to come off of the saildrive or is the anode split?

      Is using a diving team more economical to do the job than lifting out?



        hi casam.

        it depends on your saildrive type ive a Bav30 and its a 130s , do you have a rope cutter? so 1st find out which saildrive leg (details in your volvo manual) if you have a rope cutter then you should be able to order a split type. If dont have a split type ring me 07931 736 582 and i can talk you through it. You can use sealift2 if your solent based, cost about £100 and you get a scrub off at same time

        rgds Ray


          Thanks Ray – I have a Volvo D120 but not entirely sure about the saildrive…. I will have to look at the “blurb” next time I am down on the boat.

          Good idea about sea lift though…. do they let you do the anodes…. or just charge you for the privelidge?


            i believe they will do it for you, all within the hour allowed to scrub off, you just supply the anode (you better check these facts) go on Haslar marina web page and pick up sealift2 link. good luck

            regards Ray


              We have a Bavaria Cruiser 32, Aibrean, new in March 2010 and we have just completed the anode change and anti-fouling for 2012. Our engine is the D1-30 saildrive. The anode on the saildrive is split and can be changed without removing the prop. (Ours is a fixed blade prop.) However, the saildrive anode is a chunky piece of metal and after two years the original is still serviceable.
              There is also an anode fitted to an earthing stud on the hull between the saildrive and rudder. After the first year the original was almost completely eroded away and we fitted a 90mm disc type anode as a replacement. This year this was about half eroded so it has been replaced with a similar anode.
              Hope this helps.


                Thanks Aibrean!
                I had a similar incident with the stud anode…. only worse!
                My boat was launched over the winter and I left her plugged into shore power for three months with heating / dehumidifier on.
                When I lifeted her out for the pre-season I noticed that the disc had almost gone! (3 months!!)

                I too upgraded the replacement and this year have not left her plugged in for too long….. it will be a case of wait and see when I get her out in a few weeks as to whether this one has faired any better.


                  If you are plugging into shorepower regularly (even if you are not using power) it is essential to fit a galvanic isolater to the 240v circuit.


                    @symphony1 wrote:

                    If you are plugging into shorepower regularly (even if you are not using power) it is essential to fit a galvanic isolater to the 240v circuit.

                    I think that there is more to it than that… there is a factory standard one fitted to my boat but I still had this issue.

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