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      We have a 2006 B37 (3 cabin version) which we ordered without the factory fit diesel air heater. We have now decided to install one (3 years older and colder). I was very pleased to see that all of the holes are cut in the bulkheads with blanking plates for outlet in the saloon and the control panel and even a spare pick up in the fuel tank so the intallation is already looking much quicker than I was anticipating. However I can’t see an obvious place where the heater unit itself should be attached.

      If you have a similar model please can you advise, or even better send a photo of the installation. Hopefully you’ve all found them so reliable that you don’t know which dark corner it is hidden !!!




        Hi Richard.
        The unit is normally mounted in the lazarette with the exhaust either run out of the stern or topside just below the toe rail.There is no fixed position for them but quite often they are mounted on the back of the bulkhead of the aft cabin just above the access panel into the lazarette. Normally on the opposite side to the fuel tank if it is an aft tank. Saying that I have seen one fitted in a cockpit locker.
        Are you thinking of installing it yourself or having a contractor to fit it?
        Also have you considered which make, Eberspacer or Webasto. The Ebers have a bit of a reputation for going wrong but I have had no problems with mine in 4 years as long as some simple annual maintenance is carried out.
        One thing also to consider is to lag the flexible ducting, especially to the outlet in the bow cabin. The amount of heat loss getting to the sharp end is substantial. Mine isn’t lagged but I may well do so this winter.
        Sorry no pics available.


          Hi Richard

          Fitted warm air heating myself in Storm Dragon 1996 Holiday 35, but installed it in the port rear cabin close to the center line bulkhead, at the rear end,but had to box it in as could not fit below bunk level, but still leaves room for sleeping and reduced the number of bends in the ducting. Was also easier to install than it would have been in the lazerette, and the exhaust goes straight to the stern in the bathing plaform area. Also used Mikuni heating as had fitted Mikuni in a previous boat ( Westerly Fulmar ) and had no problems plus a lot cheaper than Eberspacher.

          Ed Holmes Storm Dragon


            I have just had an Eberspacher D4 fitted to my Bavaria 40. It is fitted in the lazarette, which does mean a lot of extra ducting to get the heat to the living areas. One issue I have had is getting enough outside air to the heater unit. The heater unit was cutting out after 10 mins due to overheating. I have had to have a larger air intake vent put below the seat at the aft end of the cockpit. There are already two slatted vents there, but not enough air was getting through.

            There is a huge amount of heat loss in the ducting, particularly to the forecabin, so I’m rigging up a means of disconnecting the forecabin ducting at the saloon junction piece. Rick – you mention lagging. Do you know of suitable lagging material for the ducting? The ducting does get extremely hot and I’d rather be heating my saloon than the lockers, the hull, and hence the Firth Of Clyde.

            Dream Catcher


              Hi Alastair
              Fortunately I work in the construction industry so I am able to lay my hand on numerous products quite easily and am looking at using a multi layer thin film insulation however they are quite expensive.
              Alternatives include the Thermawrap foil faced insulation which is available quite cheeply from Screwfix which can be wrapped around the ducting and taped up with foil faced tape.


                There are a couple of products on the market sold as duct insulation for boat heating systems. While they are at premium prices they are waterproof and reportedly designed for the marine environment although I suspect that only means they print marine on the label and treble the price.

                Eberspacher’s Maxitherm insulation

                Thinsulate’s Thermoduct insulation

                Another option as Rick has already indicated would be this from screwfix
                Screwfix insulation

                You would also need some foil tape to close the joints
                Screwfix foil tape

                Let us know which you choose and how you get on as I am sure there are a lot of other owners who would be interested in the cost and result of insulating the ducting.



                  Thanks Paul. That’s another job for my son this winter, while he looks for delivery/skipper jobs!

                  (He’s scraping the antifouling as we speak, with my new Bahco scraper which is SOOOO much better than cheaper scrapers.)

                  Dream Catcher


                    We fitted an aberspatcher to our Bavaria 34 in 2002 and it has never given us any trouble even though we have not serviced the unit since its installation. It’s on the list for this winter.
                    A great tip we were given by our supplier was to pull the inlet air from inside the boat. This given two advantages. The air being sucked out improves the flow of hot air into the boat, (obvious when you think about it.) and the air going into the heater is warmer and dryer than external air. We have our inlet pipe sucking air from inside of the electrical cabinet by the chart table and so far there are no signs of corrosion to the electrics. We have not lagged the ducting as we like the idea of the underberth areas being warmed when the heater is in use. These areas appear to stay very dry and tools/spares in stowage keep well.
                    Its a straightforward job and you can fit more outlets than the unit is capable of serving so long as they are the type that you can close. This gives a choice of sending heat to where you want it at the time. We have a 4 outlet unit but have ducted to 5 outlets, one of which is of the fixed open type.

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