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  • in reply to: Harken 40 2 speed winch w/self tailer – 2003 Bav 36 #14393
    bobclements
    Keymaster

      I saw your post on Facebook about this.

      I have no idea where you would get one.  Only suggestions I could offer are:-

      Clipper Marine?

      Harken in the USA (to see if they have one kicking around somewhere)?

      Sorry I can’t be of more help.  Best of luck finding one.

      Bob

      in reply to: Engine will not start #14381
      bobclements
      Keymaster

        A common problem is the connectors onto the starter solenoid.  There is a small wire with a spade connector (which comes from the relay box) on the top of the solenoid.  Take it off, clean it up, and put it back.  Then try it again.

        If not, as others have said, listen to the starter as someone else presses the button.  If there is no click from the solenoid, you may have a dead relay.

        If the solenoid is clicking, then the starter motor might be jammed, and quite often a good wack with a hammer on the casing is enough to get it going again.

        in reply to: Permanently filling holes below water line (from anode studs) #14350
        bobclements
        Keymaster

          Try sanding the ring anode surface back.  If it’s a bit old, it may need getting some fresh zinc in touch with the water.

          in reply to: Replacing Cabin Air Vents #14349
          bobclements
          Keymaster

            What I did was got a round vent from Screwfix/Toolstation (meant for an extraction/cooker hood type thing) and fitted that on the inside to cover up the hole.  You wouldn’t know that it wasn’t original fit.

            in reply to: Permanently filling holes below water line (from anode studs) #14342
            bobclements
            Keymaster

              Just use an epoxy repair putty and fill the holes with that.  As it’s below the waterline, no need to bother with gelcoat.  Just paint your antifoul straight over it.

              in reply to: Replacing Cabin Air Vents #14341
              bobclements
              Keymaster

                Don’t know what type of vent you have.  I had a Plastimo dorade vent on my coachroof which I removed and replaced with a solar vent.  The hole needed for the solar vent was about 10mm diameter bigger, so I had to enlarge it (taped a carrier bag to the roof on the inside to stop dust going into the boat, and then used a drill with sanding wheels to enlarge the hole.

                The solar vent I used was a Chinese one from ebay, and about 5 or 6 years on, it’s still going strong.  I have it set on extract, and it works well to keep some air circulating through the boat when it is closed up.  The solar fan cost about £40 if I remember right.

                in reply to: Downsizing Engine #14281
                bobclements
                Keymaster

                  Good stuff.  If you want any help or advice is specifying the engine or doing calcs, just ask.

                  Bob

                  PS. Just looked, and at 2,000 rpm your engine is producing 25hp.  The Beta 43 produces 28hp at the same rpm.  So it’s actually slightly more powerful then what you currently have.

                  • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by bobclements.
                  in reply to: Downsizing Engine #14278
                  bobclements
                  Keymaster

                    The MD22 is basically the Austin Maestro diesel marinised, which in itself was the BL O series petrol (used in the Ital and Princess).  As such is has a low compression ration and a short stroke, so is a high-revving engine relative to most diesel engines.  It only really puts out anywhere near 50hp at 3,500rpm.  Assuming you cruise at about 2,200-2,400rpm, it will be producing about 20hp.

                    I went through this a couple of years ago with my own boat, and actually wrote an article on it which is in the last BOA yearbook.

                    Personally, I decided to fir a Beta engine rather than a Volvo, for a number of reasons, namely:-

                    1./ Volvo parts are really expensive
                    2./ The Volvo warranty is only valid if the engine in fitted and serviced by a VP dealer
                    3./ The Volvo engines use an MDI unit to electronically control the engine (which have known issues of failure)
                    4./ The Beta engines are based on Kubota engines, which you can get spares for anywhere in the world
                    5./ Beta engines are better value than Volvo engines.

                    Have a read of the article (you can download it from the website), and come to your own conclusions.  I would have thought that a Beta 43 would be an excellent choice, and will sit directly on the same engine bearers.

                    My boat (a 49) was originally fitted with the turbo version of the MD22 (rated at 105hp), and I now have a Beta 50.  The old engine used to cruise at 7kts at 2,400rpm.  The new one cruises at 7kts at 1,900rpm, using about half the fuel.  Bigger is not always better when it comes to engines.

                    • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by bobclements.
                    in reply to: Leaking Windows on Bavaria 37 2001 #14273
                    bobclements
                    Keymaster

                      Lots of experience with these.  There are a number of things that can make them leak.

                      1./ The seal.  Open the window, clean the lens and the seal with a mild solvent cleaner (white spirit or PVC solvent cleaner).  Smear the seal with silicone grease.  Close.  This may solve the leak.  NEVER use Vaseline on the seals, as it makes the rubber go hard.

                      2./ Window gasket.  The gaskets are foam.  Over time the foam goes hard and brittle and starts to crumble.  The only way to solve this is to remove each window and re-bed them using Butyl (Abromast BR) or a butyl tape.

                      3./ Lens deforming.  Where the lens gets pulled up by the clamps, they deform, and can tend to let some water in.  If this happens, you can try tapping the tangs up to make it close tighter, but you just end up making the problem worse.  You eventually have to replace the lens I’m afraid.

                      I never open my windows (because every time I did, they started leaking).  I eventually got fed up with it (and they were crazed), so got some new lenses made up.  The new ones don’t open, but they don’t leak either.

                      • This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by bobclements.
                      in reply to: Show us your boat! #14170
                      bobclements
                      Keymaster

                        I’ll get things started….

                        This is Island Alchemy, our Bavaria 49.  We’ve had her from new (2003). She spent 8 years in the Caribbean, the following 9 years in the UK, and now lives in La Roche Bernard in Brittany.

                        The photo is of us running the Raz de Sein

                        ia-raz

                        in reply to: Engine control panel B32 #13853
                        bobclements
                        Keymaster

                          Hi Dave

                          Don’t know the answer, but things I have found I will share.

                          1./ 99% of all electrical problems come down to bad contact in the connectors. Undo all the connectors behind the panel, and at the engine relay box, clean them all, spray them with switch cleaner, and put them back together.

                          2./ The Volvo panel has a number of diodes in there, so it’s not just a case of simple lights in there.However, this is all potted, so I doubt any water has got in there. It could be the ignition barrel (connections again), so give it a good spray with switch cleaner, and see if that cures it.

                          You can get switch cleaner from RS components. While you’re at it, get a tin of IPA (Isoprpol Alchohol), which is also excellent for cleaning and degreasing, and a tin of PTFE spray (which is excellent for lubricating stuff).

                          bobclements
                          Keymaster

                            Firstly I would speak to the owner of your new mooring and explain to them that you aren’t able to use the mooring as the boat is stuck elsewhere, and see if they will refund you a proportion of your new mooring fee.

                            I would also talk to the current marina, also explaining the situation, and ask if there is any way that they can either reduce their fees or move the boat to somewhere cheaper for you.

                            Unfortunately you are not alone. I too currently have 2 lots of moorings running and paid for, but am not able to get to or move the boat.

                            in reply to: Bavaria 30 – Gear transmission. #13828
                            bobclements
                            Keymaster

                              Is it the gear selector at the engine end or the remote lever end that is broken? If it is the engine end, you need to tell us what engine you have. If it is at the lever end, I believe that the standard levers are made by Teleflex and you can get them online, but you obviously need to know which model it is.

                              bobclements
                              Keymaster

                                As far as powering it goes, mine is powered from the main bank with cables running forwards, and it works fine. You will need pretty big cables though and a big fuse near the batteries. Connecting it to the starter battery should be ok, so long as you only use the winch while the engine is running.

                                bobclements
                                Keymaster

                                  I seem to remember someone asking about this a while ago. If my memory serves me correctly, there isn’t a shelf in the anchor locker of a 32, which means there is nowhere to mount a windlass unless you put a horizontal one on the deck behind the anchor locker. I think it was concluded that the best answer is to make and bond in a shelf out of play coated in grp.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 43 total)