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  • in reply to: Rigging lazy jacks B 32 #13825
    bobclements
    Keymaster

      I would have expected 4 lifting points onto each side of the bag. These would basically by 2 bits of rope (from 1-2, and from 3-4), with stainless rings in the middle. The rings are then connected with another bit of rope, also with a ring in, and finally you attach a piece of rope to this ring which goes through a block at the spreader and back down the mast to a cleat. I can’t see how 2 attachment points on the bag is going to be enough.

      in reply to: Folding Propeller Bavaria 38 2005 #13805
      bobclements
      Keymaster

        Take a look at Flexofold. Generally thought to be the best folding props.

        in reply to: General smell throughout boat #13601
        bobclements
        Keymaster

          I used to get the “boat” smell too. I replaced the dorade vent on the coachroof with a solar vent (set to extract), and I also leave a few of the hatches on vent to encourage air circulation. It has completely got rid of said smell, and also helps massively with condensation and I have no “black spot” on the ceiling in the spring any more. Also worth checking that the bilges are completely dry, and if you are in a marina, try putting a dehumidifier in the boat, with the drain going down the sink.

          in reply to: Bavaria 32 (2003) toilet outlet ball-valve/seacock #13584
          bobclements
          Keymaster

            Those are the standard-fit ball vales. I believe the inlets are 3/4″ and the outlets are 1.5″.

            ASAP supplies is a good place to look for replacements. They sell brass, DTZ, Bronze, and Truedesign plastic ones.

            in reply to: Propellor falling off #13532
            bobclements
            Keymaster

              Never heard of that before.

              in reply to: Exhaust smoke #13508
              bobclements
              Keymaster

                If it dissipates quickly, it’s probably steam.

                The harder you run the engine, the hotter it gets, and the hotter the water coming out of the exhaust gets.

                So it’s not uncommon to get steam, especially in colder weather.

                I would just check the engine temperature with an infra-red thermometer to make sure the engine isn’t over-heating, and maybe change your impeller and clean out the heat exchanger tube stack, because if some of the tubes are blocked, that will restrict the flow and make the engine run hot.

                Also, if you have a saildrive, make sure that the water inlet in the leg isn’t partially blocked. This can cause lots of steam. When you take the pipe off the seacock and open the valve, you should get a big flow of water (like a fountain). If you don’t, then get your dinghy hose, stick it over the hose barb and give it half a dozen pumps. You should then get the proper water flow. Continue until you do.

                Hope that helps.

                Bob

                in reply to: Exhaust smoke #13504
                bobclements
                Keymaster

                  What colour smoke. Is it black (like a destroyer), grey, blue/grey, or white. Could it also be steam rather than smoke (steam will disperse quickly, whereas smoke will hang around over the water.

                  in reply to: Leaks (what, where, and how to fix) #13498
                  bobclements
                  Keymaster

                    Take the panels off the side walls in the forepeak, and you will probably get some clues. The likelyhood is that the water is running down behind one of these panels.

                    in reply to: Leaks (what, where, and how to fix) #13496
                    bobclements
                    Keymaster

                      Hi Peter

                      I believe that a common source of leaks in the forepeak can be water running down the bow light cable where it runs inside the pulpit.

                      Other suggestion is the forepeak hatch. Check the foam under the frame to see if it has gone hard and crumbly. If it has, water might be getting in. You can re-bed it with butyl tape.

                      in reply to: LED Navigation Lights #13459
                      bobclements
                      Keymaster

                        Mine are bayonet fitting. Doesn’t necessarily mean that yours are too though.

                        Mine is a 2003 boat.

                        in reply to: Leaks (what, where, and how to fix) #13166
                        bobclements
                        Keymaster

                          The most common source of deck leak on the Oceans (in fact all the boats with teak toerails) is from behind the wooden mouldings under the toerails. These mouldings cover the hull/deck joint. If you remove the stainless steel strip and then remove the teak moulding, you will see the joint, and I would go along it with some CT1, as there’s a high chance that there is a gap in the sealant. I say to use CT1 because you can put it onto wet surfaces.

                          in reply to: Sacrificial Strip #13163
                          bobclements
                          Keymaster

                            Nicky Octon at NJO sails – Shalrock Quay.

                            or

                            Mark Flew, Flew Sails, at Wicor Marine.

                            in reply to: Exhaust Elbow #13162
                            bobclements
                            Keymaster

                              I believe that the stainless steel ones are worth the extra money.

                            Viewing 13 posts - 31 through 43 (of 43 total)